23th issue In-On
“The basic eating habits in the new Greek state, since its foundation till World War II, remain the same. The introduction of new products enriched the existing diet and was adequately absorbed by the traditional Greek cuisine. Potato was introduced in Greece under the rule of Ioannis Kapodistrias (1828-1831). This was a period of time when we have the silver phoenix, the first coin of the Modern Greek state”, maintained the archaeologists Efterpi Ralli and Maria Foundouli.
In an interview to “In-On” magazine, Mrs. Maria Foundouli clarified “After the foundation of the New Greek State, the cities started to develop and the middle class started to follow the Western eating habits. Greek cuisine incorporates European recipes and assimilates its elements. For instance, the traditional dish of moussaka was enriched with béchamel sauce. This new cuisine became popular through the cookery books of Nikolaos Tselementes and Chryssa Paradissi, which constituted the necessary tools for the “modern housewife”.
Also, in the book entitled “The cost of Food’ the following data is given.
In 1834, 1 kilo of bread cost 26 cents.
In 1931, 1 kilo of top quality bread cost 5, 49 drachmas.
In 1931, 1 kilo of lower quality cost 4, 56 drachmas.
In 1975, 1 kilo of half white bread cost 8, 30 drachmas.
In 1975, 1 kilo of white bread cost 9, 25 drachmas.
In 1880, 1 kilo of olive oil cost 80 cents.
In 1931, 1 kilo of olive oil cost 20-21 drachmas.
In 1975, 1 kilo of olive oil cost 59, 73 drachmas.
In 1834, 1 kilo of olives cost 50 cents.
In 1880, 1 kilo of olives cost 74 cents.
In 1931, 1 kilo of olives cost 13, 70 drachmas.
In 1834, 1 kilo of potatoes cost 25 cents.
In 1931, 1 kilo of potatoes cost 4, 29 drachmas.
In 1975, 1 kilo of potatoes cost 7, 50 drachmas.
In 1834, 1 kilo of beans cost 36 cents.
In 1931, 1 kilo of beans cost 8, 24 drachmas.
In 1975, 1 kilo of beans cost 37, 2 drachmas.
In 1834, 1 kilo of rice cost 56 cents.
In 1931, 1 kilo of rice cost 10, 49 drachmas.
In 1975, 1 kilo of rice cost 16, 01 drachmas.
In 1834, 1 kilo of pasta cost 62 cents.
In 1931, 1 kilo of pasta cost 11, 41 drachmas.
In 1834, 1 liter of milk cost 24 cents.
In 1880, 1 liter of milk cost 35 cents.
In 1931, 1 liter of milk cost 7, 49 drachmas.
In 1834, 1 kilo of butter cost 2, 18 drachmas.
In 1931, 1 kilo of butter cost 66, 76 drachmas.
In 1975, 1 kilo of butter cost 98, 27 drachmas.
In 1834, 1 kilo of meat cost 51 cents.
In 1880, 1 kilo of meat cost 60 cents.
In 1931, 1 kilo of meat cost 20, 39 drachmas.
In 1975, 1 kilo of meat cost 70, 14 drachmas.
In 1834, 1 egg cost 3 cents.
In 1931, 1 couple of eggs cost 2, 97 drachmas.
In 1834, 1 kilo of salted cod cost 62 cents.
In 1931, 1 kilo of salted cod cost 13, 10 drachmas.
In 1975, 1 kilo of salted cod cost 64, 96 drachmas.
In 1834, 1 kilo of salt cost 12 cents.
In 1880, 1 kilo of salt cost 8 cents.
In 1834, 1 kilo of sugar cost 1, 32 drachmas.
In 1931, 1 kilo of sugar cost 14, 51 drachmas.
In 1975, 1 kilo of sugar cost 21, 55 drachmas.
In 1834, 1 kilo of coffee cost 2, 10 drachmas.
In 1931, 1 kilo of coffee cost 46, 89 drachmas.
In 1975, 1 kilo of coffee cost 145, 47 drachmas.
It has to be noted that kilo (1.000 grams) as an official weight unit replaced oka when the international system of Units Uas Established in Greece (S.I) in 1959. Oka (400 ounce) amounted to 1282 grams.
Salaries:
-1834, the average salary was 90 drachmas
-1880, the average salary of a civil servant 2.800 drachmas
-1932, the average salary was 2.300 drachmas
-1975, the average salary of a shop assistant was 9.526 drachmas
-1975, the average salary of a worker in a store was 4.080 drachmas
Two recipes that use the above products are presented below. More specifically:
– Goat meat with egg and lemon sauce
Take the forequarter of a kid. Cut it into medium pieces. Place the pieces in a pot and boil them for two minutes. Take the pot off the heat and put the meat pieces under cold water. Put the pieces on a clean cloth to remove the bones.
Put some butter and a little ham, an onion with three cloves and a bunch of herbs in the pot. Heat; place the pieces of meat in the pot and sauté. Stir regularly and after a while add a bit of fine flour. Then, add enough meat broth and let the food cook well.
Take four egg yolks, some lemon juice adequate to the meat and a bit chopped parsley.
When the meat is done, mix the above ingredients and pour the egg and lemon sauce on it. Frequently move the pot till the mixture blends well. Serve.
Mathew “Cooking” translated from an Italian book, Syros 1828, Athens 1992.
– Scalloped potatoes
Peel, boil and smash 1 kilo and 1/4 potatoes. Put the puree in a bowl or pot and add two eggs, a handful of grated, not salty cheese, 2-3 tablespoons of flour, salt, pepper and nutmeg. Mix well with a wooden spoon. Shape them like the meatballs but a little larger. It is worth mentioning, however, that since the mixture is quite soft it needs extra flour on the surface of the kitchen marble. Roll them and press the knife blade on them until they get the shape of meatballs. Fry them in a frying pan using butter until they turn gold.
Another point to remember is that when the potatoes are very fresh, the puree is not dry enough. For that reason, add one more egg and 1-2 tablespoons more flour. This method protects them either when shaping them or during frying.
N.Tselementes, Cooking and pastries Guide Book, Athens 1973.